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Can’t keep track of who’s leading fashion these days? We know the feeling. 2024’s seen an upheaval of new designers and creative director appointments, and exits. We haven’t seen this much shuffling since the mid-2010’s, when Alessandro Michele began his Gucci tenure, Maria Grazia Chiuri took the helm at Dior, and Raf Simons entered his (forgettable?) Americana era at Calvin Klein. Labels are making changes left and right—and with a much wider digital audience monitoring their every move. Consider this your go-to guide for 2024’s massive re-shuffling of the fashion designer set—that is, until next year!
Who’s Flown The Coop?
The new year kicked off with Matthew M. Williams leaving Givenchy as its creative director on January 1. After February’s round of Fashion Month shows, the designer upheaval escalated. Dries Van Noten announced his retirement from his namesake brand in March, shortly followed by Pierpaolo Piccioli leaving Valentino after 25 years at the label. All was calm until June, when Virginie Viard abruptly left her post as Chanel’s creative director—which sparked mass debate over who’d get the job (more on that later!) Peter Hawkings left Tom Ford in July, while September’s Fashion Month shows were punctuated by Glenn Martens’ exit from Y/Project and Alberta Ferretti’s news that she’d leave her namesake label. October, however, proved a much bigger beast: Filippo Grazioli parted ways with Missoni, where Alberto Caliri was announced as his replacement the same day. Hedi Slimane sharply exited Celine, where his artistic director job was swiftly filled by Michael Rider—who left Polo Ralph Lauren for the gig. Kim Jones shared his exit as Fendi’s artistic director of womenswear and couture, while Fillippo Grazioli departed Missoni the same month. November was sailing smoothly yet again, until Phillip Lim announced his exit from 3.1 Phillip Lim—and Peter Do followed by leaving Helmut Lang mere hours later. Got all that?
Dries Van Noten (Courtesy)
Who Are This Year’s New Designer Hires?
Though 2024’s been filled with exits, lots of brands have welcomed new designers with open arms. Adrian Appiolaza took the mantle at Moschino in January, following former creative director David Renne’s death that month. After a two-year break from fashion, Alessandro Michele returned to take the open creative director role at Valentino. Claire Waight Keller also returned to design with a new gig as the creative director of Uniqlo’s sharp new Uniqlo: C collection. In May, Veronica Leoni was appointed creative director at Calvin Klein Collection, which will find her presenting her first CK line in February. Haider Ackermann kept busy in 2024, revealing his new job as Canada Goose’s creative director in May and Tom Ford‘s creative director in September. July saw David Koma taking on a new job as Blumarine’s creative director. As previously mentioned, Missoni welcomed Alberto Caliri as its new creative director in September, the same month that Michael Rider took over Celine from Hedi Slimane. Sarah Burton also saw a return to the industry as Givenchy’s creative director.
Sarah Burton (Courtesy of Givenchy)
What’s Going On At Chanel?
Now for the billion-dollar question: Who will take be Chanel’s next creative director? Though insiders predicted the brand would fill the role quickly, the opposite has been true. Fashion’s waited five months for Chanel to announce former creative director Virginie Viard‘s successor, but to no avail. The brand continued with its Fall 2024 Haute Couture show in June, regarded as Viard’s final collection. Ever since, an in-house design team has been behind Chanel’s designs, showing its Spring 2025 collection in September. However, news is expected to break as soon as December regarding who’s the next creative director for the brand, which held designer auditions for the job earlier this fall. Chanel’s rumored to have courted Simon Porte Jacquemus, Thom Browne, Pieter Mullier, and Matthieu Blazy for the job, though nothing is confirmed yet. Plus, Marc Jacobs—a top contender for the role by insiders—has thrown his hat in the ring, citing the job as one he strongly wants in a new feature in the New York Times this month. Puck’s Lauren Sherman is reporting it’s Blazy for the win!
Chanel Spring 2025 (Courtesy of Chanel)
Who’s Staying Put?
Deep breaths! Sabato De Sarno will continue his Ancora-red reign as Gucci’s creative director, while Maria Grazia Chiuri is staying at Dior—where Kim Jones is continuing to lead menswear. Daniel Roseberry’s celebrated tenure at Schiaparelli is similarly keeping a steady path, as is Marc Jacobs’ at his namesake brand. Sean McGirr is making headway at Alexander McQueen, as well—particularly following his well-received Spring 2025 show. Pharrell Williams is succeeding so far as Louis Vuitton’s creative director of menswear, releasing colorful collections inspired by dog owners and the Wild West this year. At the French brand’s womenswear division, Nicolas Ghesquiere just celebrated 10 years as creative director. Daniel Lee is still leading Burberry, and Olivier Rousteing is continuing his popular tenure at Balmain—similarly to Casey Cadwallader, who’s ingrained in his role as Mugler’s creative director. As of right now, Thom Browne is keeping his leadership at his namesake brand, while Jacquemus’ Simon Porte Jaceuqmus, Alaïa’s Pieter Mullier, and Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy are similarly staying put at their respective brands. Julien Dossena is also staying on as Rabanne’s creative director, where he’s continued playing with the house’s signature chainmail and discs to great acclaim. Prada‘s collaborative leadership between Miuccia Prada—who’s still running Miu Miu—and Raf Simons is similarly harmonious, with the pair continuing to push the envelope with experimental collections each season. Plus, Chemena Kamali has successfully established herself at Chloé after just two seasons as creative director, leading the boho-chic renaissance that’s spread like wildfire this year.
So, Who Still Needs A Job?
Someone call Pierpaolo Piccioli! The beloved designer has been enjoying a much-deserved break since he left Valentino, though fashion fans have beseeched his return ever since. Jeremy Scott has departed fashion design since he left Moschino in 2023, while Nicola Brognano is up for a new role after parting ways with Blumarine. Meanwhile, Glenn Martens, Peter Hawkings, Fillippo Grazioli, Peter Do, and Phillip Lim are all fresh from leaving their most recent posts. Finally, the industry is waiting with bated breath for new moves by Hedi Slimane and Virginie Viard—who have each taken a break from fashion this summer.
Pierpaolo Piccioli
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