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Less than a year ago, Dario Vitale showed his one and only collection for Versace. It was great. And the parts that weren’t so great — the Warhol prints (blegh!) — were at least forgivable, especially considering that his original intent was apparently to release a smaller, more focused collection via a look book.
A few months later — after Vitale was ousted by his former bosses-turned-new bosses at Prada Group, which bought the Versace from Capri Holdings just over a month after the aforementioned show — the brand released one of the best campaigns of the season, featuring cuddle puddles of models decked out in the strongest looks from Vitale’s show.
Versace Spring 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Versace Spring 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Versace Spring 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Shot by the great Steven Meisel, the campaign images were a fresh take on Meisel’s work for Versace Jeans Couture under founding designer Gianni Versace in the ’90s and a keen reminder of what was lost (or acrimoniously chucked into the garbage) when Vitale was fired.
Since Vitale’s dismissal, the design studio has been left to create collections without a leader, including the forthcoming Fall 2026 collection, for which Versace just released their latest campaign.
Versace Fall 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Once again shot by Meisel, the clothes in the campaign, not to mention the composition of many of the images, look a lot like what Vitale was doing before his ouster. But less. Less excitement, less sex appeal, less freshness, less interest.
Instead of a sea models, the images are full-length portraits of individuals surrounded by an assortment of old magazines and other bric a brac from Versace’s past.
Versace Fall 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Versace Fall 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Versace Fall 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Versace Fall 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Titled “Versace Obsessed, Chapter II,” the brand describes the campaign as “the evocative evolution of an ongoing narrative, reinforcing the House’s inimitable impact with rediscovered and unseen icons.” But what it really feels like is a watered down version of the Versace that could have been if only Prada Group had given Vitale a chance.
There are also four images shot in a beach house studio setup that look positively catalog-y.
Versace Fall 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Versace Fall 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Versace Fall 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Versace Fall 2026 (Steven Meisel)
Not that it really matters now that former Alaïa designer Pieter Mulier has officially taken over at Versace (hist first day was July 1). Mulier is set to show his debut collection for the brand in less than two months and when he does the short-lived Vitale era at Versace will be well and thoroughly behind us.
Mulier is incredibly talented and his Versace will likely be thrilling and desireable in its own way — we are certainly excited to see it — but we will always think about what could have been and look forward to the day when Dario Vitale is handed the reigns at a new house more appreciative of his prodigious talents.
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