Sofia Achaval de Montaigu’s Paris Haute Couture Week Diary: Chanel Schiaparelli, And More!

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The Daily Front Row‘s chic correspondent, Sofia Achaval de Montaigu, has been soaking up the shows in Europe. Below, she fills us in on all the highlights and the unforgettable moments that took place at the latest haute couture shows for Paris Haute Couture Week‘s Fall 2025 season.

Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli presented its collection at the Paris Petit Palais with Daniel Roseberry’s creative direction. Under dim lightning, we saw thirty looks on the runway with a soundtrack that included a mashup of LCD Soundsystem’s “Someone Great” and Mount Kimble “Made to Stay. The front row was starred by Dua Lipa, Karol G, Cardi B and Hunter Schaffer. Once again, Roseberry explored Elsa Schiaparelli’s classic surrealist basis and pushed them towards a new visual idea: the body as a sculpture. One of the most memorable moments was a tight red silk dress that reflected the perfectly sculpted muscles and feminine curves. A heart shaped brooch made in a red type of crystal pinned to the back completed the look. That dress was followed by a silver architectural one that mixed sensuality and drama. Jackets and suits inspired by tuxedos, with firm shoulders and cinched waists were hand embroidered. One of the favorites was a 3d surrealist corset made in black shiny leather, which shaped the torso with exaggerated curves making it look like futuristic armor. The corset was combined with a velvet skirt and matching black gloves and lipstick. The outfit that stood out most to me was a strapless corset dress that ended in a wide skirt, all in total red with matching gloves. The color palette oscillated between black, shimmering grays and white with hints of red, gold and silver. The fabrics were tulles, organzas, silks, satins and wools. Structured hair updos, almost sculptural, were seen alongside perfect sleek backs leaving the protagonist to the faces and dark lips. In terms of accessories, we saw big earrings, sculptural rings and metallic bracelets that worked as their own art pieces.

Iris van Herpen

At the Paris Elysée Montmartre, Iris van Herpen presented her collection called “Sympoiesis”, a show where nature and technology fusion into a very visual poetry. The memorable beginning was done by a ballerina wearing tulle, spinning before a laser illuminated column.After that, sculptural crinolines and vaporous dresses emerged. The most important moment was the appearance of the living dress. It was made with 125 million bioluminescent algae, which turned electric blue in each twirl thanks to their organic gel. The show continued exploring tight silhouettes that evoked fish’s scales, fins and seahorse’s tails. The marine inspiration was also seen in elegant dresses in black, white and silver, and a bullfighter look in total black with embroideries and gloves. The color palette was dominated by navy blues, greens, black and silver, with the occasional bright red, while the fabrics that stood out were tulles, organzas and silks. The experience was accompanied by a light installation with lasers that “created” the items in real time, and a soundtrack that evoked an underwater ballet. Danna Paola, among other figures, enjoyed the show first row. The hairstyles were simple, with some wearing their hair up, others down, and others with strands of hair that highlighted the lightness of the collection. The makeup prioritized a fresh, almost translucent face, in perfect sync with the “natural-tech” aesthetic of the line.

Chanel 

At the Honor Hall of the Grand Palais, Chanel presented its new Fall/Winter 2025/2026 collection, the last one by Chanel’s in-house team before Matthieu Blazy’s debut. Willo Perron recreated the iconic Rue Cambon for the set, with wide pleated curtains, mirrors, and beige sofas that reminded us of Gabrielle Chanel’s halls. The collection included 46 looks, with long coats with fringes starting the proposal dominated by black and white, followed by earthy hues like beige, ivory, brown and green. There were notable nods to the world of wheat, like in the cuffs of a coat. Tweed came up in innovative ways: coats and suits with feathers and embroideries, skirts over trousers and long dresses in off-white hues. Even a bride closed the show wrapped in white tulles carrying a golden wheat bouquet. The looks were completed with high boots, while in terms of accessories, the ones that stood out were belts with golde buckles and gloves. Penélope Cruz, Naomi Campbell, Keira Knightley and Lily Rose Depp enjoyed the show in the first row.

Giorgio Armani Prive

At the Triangle d’Or in Paris, Giorgio Armani presented their new collection called “Noir Séduisant”. At the venue, the models walked slowly through golden halls over a silver runway. The proposal was a tribute to black, and it was seen in velvets, silks and subtle hints of gold and silver that established a sophisticated narrative. The show began with sculptural trousers combined with green and blue tops. Long and fluid dresses were highlighted by big bows, pleated transparencies and bracelet like cuffs. Sequins, floral appliqués, crystals and velvet added a distinctive touch. The tailoring took the stage in tuxedo vests turned dressing gowns with deep lapels, cropped blazers over naked skin and high waisted trousers. Velvet heels and pronounced shoulders coats were among the most stand out pieces. Some of the most spectacular items were a sparkly black corset dress combined with a see through fan covered in sequins. The makeup followed the show’s palette: gray eyeshadow for the eyes and hair decorated with black berets. Angela Basset, Marisa Berenson and Mona Ayoub enjoyed the show in the first row. The soundtrack mashed up Grégoire Jokic’s “There will be light” with Max Raabe’s retro jazz “Speak Low”.

Balenciaga 

Balenciaga’s atelier at Paris’ George V avenue was the stage for one of fashion’s most recent farewells. With an intimate setting, almost theatrical, Demna said goodbye to the brand in the most important show of this Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. The show began with an architectural white dress followed by Kim Kardashian wearing Elizabeth Taylor’s jewelry and an ivory slip dress combined with a white feathered coat. Other figures that shined on the runway were Isabelle Huppert, Naomi Campbell, Eva Herzigova and Danielle Slavik, Cristobal Balenciaga’s muse, who walked in an exact replica from an original suit from 1967 made of a floor-length black dress with long sleeves and a necklace as the star. We saw suits with big shoulder pads, dress with lace from head to toe, sparkly coats and a black sequin dress inspired by Marilyn Monroe followed by a pink princess dress made in organza. The looks were sober but powerful: tidy hairdos, simple updos and nude makeup that left the protagonism to the clothes. The final touch was the soundtrack, where a voice over named each ateliers member, ending with an emotional “Demna”.  Among the audience were Nicole Kidman, Katy Perry, Salma Hayek, Cardi B, Justine Skye, Kyle MacLachlan and Naomi Watts with her daughter Kai. Nicole Kidman caught everyone’s eye wearing an imposing black look made of a pair of trousers and coat combined with glasses and the hair parted down the middle. The final applause was powerful. Demna said goodbye amidst a standing ovation, hugged by Francois Henri Pinault and Pierpaolo Piccioli, his successor.

JW Anderson 

JW Anderson presented his collection “Resort Spring 2026” at the Galerie Joseph, marking the rebirth of the brand Jonathan Anderson describes as a “Modern cabinet of curiosities”. The exhibit, more than a traditional show, combined fashion, design and art. The venue was full of carefully selected objects: Mackintosh stools, vintage watering cans, gardening tools, honey from the Houghton Hall Estate, ceramic pieces by Akiko Hirai, crystal from Murano, Welsh blankets and handcrafted pieces. All of that cohabited with the collection’s revisited pieces, from cardigans to Fair Isle jerseys and Japanese denim, presented with a new logo and a shopping concept created by Sanchez Benton Architects. He also published a 125 page look book where different people modeled the clothes with a focus on the importance of craftsmanship and local production. For example, Luca Guadagnino wore one of the cardigans, Ivan Ugrin an “Anonymous Lovers” hoodie, Joe Alwyn a printed shirt while Ben Whishaw bet on a neon scarf and hat. Other appearances include Fai Khadra, Alison Oliver, Bella Freud and Oliver Sim. The collection included sweaters, cargo pants and the iconic Loafer bag in an XL version.

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